We visited Tarangire National Park on our first trip to Africa in January 1991 and on our most recent in July 2003 when our two children accompanied us as a celebration of our daughter’s graduation from high school. The trips proved to be safaris of contrast. On our first visit, the Park was green and full of wildlife. In stark contrast, the July trip found the Park extremely dry with a dearth of animals. But the magnificent landscape remained a constant.

Tarangire covers approximately 2,600 square kilometers (1,000 square miles) and is the third largest National Park in Tanzania. The Park is located in the northern portion of Tanzania, a short distance southwest of Arusha over a tarmac road, and is situated at the south of the open grass plains of Masailand. The Tarangire River traverses the Park as it flows westward to Lake Burungi, and is the only permanent source of water. The River was full and running on our first trip. However, when we returned some twelve years later, it had been reduced to isolated pools of water. I do not believe the River is drying up. Rather, I attribute this to the difference between the end of a rainy season (January) versus the middle of a dry season (July). Future observations will bear this out.

In 1991, the Park purportedly possessed the second highest concentration of wildlife in Tanzania during the dry season, second only to the Serengeti/Ngorongoro ecosystem. This may have changed now since a corridor has been established between the Park and Lake Manyara, allowing animals to leave the Park during the dry season for the waters of the Lake. This could explain the small number of animals we encountered the second time around.

The Park has several resident species such as giraffes, oryx (also known as gemsbok), impalas and warthogs, and many migratory species such as wildebeest, zebra, elephants and gazelles. These migratory species leave the Park at various times of the year, usually coinciding with the rainy seasons. However, in prior years, as more of the migratory areas were cut off by human encroachment, more species were becoming resident species of the Park. This may have changed with the opening of the Manyara corridor.

The topography of Tarangire alternates among grasslands, flooded plains, woodlands, rocky hills and marshes. What struck me vividly was how abruptly the topography would change in the Park. On one side of the road may be open grasslands while on the other side is woodlands. It was almost as if the road was a natural divider, or at least had been constructed along a natural divider. There are several ecosystems in the Park, including Lemiyon, Matete, Burungi Circuit, Kitibong and Grusi. Each ecosystem offers a different viewing experience, the topography dictating the animals which we would see as different animals inhabit different vegetation zones. Waterbirds are more abundant in the flood plains. Since giraffes feed on trees, they are generally not found in the open grasslands. However, the grasslands are generally where you find the antelopes and wildebeest and, not so un coincidentally, the predators which feed upon them.

As we approached Tarangire in 1991, my heart began pumping a little faster in anticipation of the true beginning of our first safari. We turned off the highway from Arusha onto an unpaved road and headed towards the main gate of Tarangire National Park, flushing two black backed jackals in the process and providing us with a fleeting glimpse of our first wild African animals - a moment indelibly imprinted in my mind. My senses had already been charged with the “newness” that had confronted me when leaving the airport: the smells of the countryside; the dust rising from the road; vegetation I had never seen before; skies that seemed endless; a multitude of people traveling the same roads as us; and Masai boys tending their herds of cattle and donkeys. Now I was encountering Africa and its wildlife in their native surroundings, transforming stories from my youth and television shows into reality. This was the reason I had traveled to Africa. And this was the point at which the lure of Africa first took hold.

We reached the main gate of Tarangire, the gate that, for us first timers to Africa, beckoned us to enter for an experience unlike any other that we had ever known. As Gary tended to administrative duties, we explored our surroundings. This part of the Park was mostly grasslands, interspersed with trees and shrubs. A rainbow could be seen arcing over an outhouse (a “choo” in Swahili) a short distance from the road. But my curiosity came back to the gate, with its metal silhouettes of two rhinos. (1) A giant baobab tree flanked its right side and a large acacia tree its left, two magnificent symbols of East Africa. Several animal skulls lay atop the stone fence between the gate and the registration building, but I was only able to identify a cape buffalo and an elephant (sans tusks). After registering, we proceeded through the gate to begin our adventure.

In 1991, our group’s destination was the Tarangire Safari Lodge, a facility located several miles inside the Park. To me, the most striking feature of the Lodge, barring anything, was the truly magnificent view that it afforded, a view which is completely obscured until you walk behind the building and onto the patio. The Lodge sits on a bluff overlooking the Tarangire River. The first time I gazed out, I was astounded by the view, an experience that seemed to be common to the other members of our group. A veritable oasis stretched out along the River, speckled with acacia trees, baobab trees and other vegetation. No matter the time of the day, some species of animal could be seen grazing on the luscious green grass or drinking from the River below. I do not believe pictures adequately capture the vastness and magnificence of the view.

The Lodge’s guest facilities at that time consisted of two person “permanent” tents and several cabins. Our group was staying in the permanent tents during our three night visit to the Park. The interior of the Lodge building consisted mostly of exposed wood, covered in layers of shellac. The Lodge had four general areas: the dining area, the bar, the large patio and the gift shop. A swimming pool was situated nearby for those with the urge to take a dip. Most of our time at the Lodge was spent on the patio, enjoying a drink and the view and talking amongst ourselves and other travelers.

The “permanent” tents at the Lodge were just that. Erected on a concrete slab and covered by a thatch roof, the tents were of heavy canvas with flaps for windows that rolled up and down. Mosquito mesh screened the windows. The front and back door flaps could be zipped to the canvas floor so that, once you were closed in for the night, insects and animals were effectively kept outside. In front of the tent was a patio with a table and two canvas chairs. We enjoyed returning to our tent during the day and lounging on our patio, looking out on the Park sprawling beneath us. A light hung outside on the patio of the tent if we wished to sit there after sunset. Each tent contained two cots, each with a foam mattress and pillow. Also inside our tent was a small table. We found the tents sufficiently large enough to live in comfortably. Attached to the back of the tent, enclosed in wood on three sides and covered by the thatch roof, were a flush toilet and shower, as well as a sink with running water (we were cautioned not to drink the water). A walkway traversed the tents, lined with white rocks and creating a mosaic effect. Irene and I were lucky enough to occupy a tent shaded by a magnificent giant baobab tree.

The evenings were cool at the Park, requiring us to dress warmly with a light jacket or sweatshirt and long pants. I was surprised by the fact that we were not bothered by mosquitoes or other insects while we were on the patio. I expected the insects to be a major nuisance on this trip and was not disappointed to discover that my preconceived notions were incorrect. After dinner, we retired to the patio for drinks. The bar at the Lodge was well stocked, offering soft drinks, Safari Lager (a locally brewed beer) and an assortment of hard liquors, although condiments for various mixed drinks were in short supply. Whether the drinks were cold or tepid was nothing more than a matter of luck, and I do not recall seeing any ice on that trip.

However, by the time of our return twelve years later, cold drinks and ice were readily available, as was bottled water, a luxury rarely to be found in 1991. We introduced ourselves to another local drink while spending time on the patio, the “spook and diesel” made from Konyagi (a clear alcoholic drink distilled in Tanzania) and cola. We relaxed on the balcony for several hours after dinner, socializing and listening to the sounds of insects and animals in the distance as the night settled in. The sky blackened and the stars and the moon slowly came out, illuminating the darkness. Other safari goers staying at the Lodge were also sitting about the patio, drinking and swapping stories, eager to strike up a conversation. Around 11 p.m., the diesel generator at the Lodge shut off. Without the generator, there was no electricity whatsoever, and the only light available was a flashlight and the stars, making walking around outside after that time interesting. Wary of our surroundings, I found myself scanning both sides of the walkway with my flashlight (also known as a torch) as I strolled between our tent and the Lodge after sunset, hoping that I would not encounter anything other than the people staying or working at the Lodge.

That first night, we could not sleep as soundly as we would have liked. Laying in our tent on the bluff, we could hear the sound of the wind howling all night long. We could also listen to the sounds of the wildlife, which normally could not be heard during the day. Probably the most intriguing, and menacing, sound that we heard was that of the lions. The volume of their guttural grunts made us believe they were right outside of out tent, although in actuality they probably were a mile or so away. At least, that is what we told ourselves. During my first night at Tarangire, I ventured out back of the tent (although within the enclosure leading directly from behind the tent) to make use of the restroom facilities. I noticed a light bouncing around outside and, glancing out, I saw a guard patrolling the area, flashing his torch about and holding a rifle in his other arm. If I ever entertained thoughts of taking a stroll around the camp after dark, that sight clearly convinced me otherwise.

We were staying at the Lodge for three nights, which gave us two full days of game viewing. A typical day of game viewing, if any day is typical, revolves around the sun, beginning at 6 a.m. right around sunrise. The camp staff brought us coffee, hot tea or juice if we so desired, which also served as a wake up call. Unless we ate breakfast first, we would dress, freshen up and leave by 6:30 a.m. for our first game drive of the day. Early morning and late afternoon and evening are the best times for viewing the wildlife since most of the animals lay up during the heat of the day. Although night game drives are optimum for watching predators, the Parks that we visited in Tanzania required that all visitors return to their camps by nightfall. The morning game drive generally lasted for two and one half to three hours, at which time we returned to camp. We then cleaned up, washing the dust from our face (the one constant in Tanzania being the dust), and ate breakfast. After breakfast, we departed for another game drive for several more hours, after which we returned for lunch around 1 or 2 p.m. If we left after breakfast, there was no mid-day game drive. The afternoon was usually spent relaxing, reading a book, enjoying a drink, cleaning our cameras or napping. Then we were out for the last game drive of the day beginning around 3:30 p.m. until dark. Upon returning for the day, we showered and changed clothes, enjoyed our sundowner (cocktails or other refreshments), followed by dinner, campfire and then bed, only to start over again the next morning. This followed on most game viewing days, although there were variations on this theme. The days not spent game viewing were usually travel days.

The Tarangire River

On our first morning in Tarangire, we were awake before 6 a.m., not having slept very well but eager to start. The camp staff brought coffee to the tent. The coffee was strong and very hot, but nevertheless a welcome combatant against the night chill. As the rest of our group was being waken, the trumpeting of an elephant split the relative still of the camp. Convinced the animal was right behind our tent, we rushed out to see the source of the commotion, as did several of our companions. One hundred yards or so away, a single bull elephant was leisurely grazing on the tall grasses growing around the Lodge. As we returned to our tent, we caught a glimpse of three common waterbucks scurrying through the taller brush fifty feet or so away from our camp, disappearing quickly, as if startled by our appearance. Our first morning on safari and four wild animals, all without leaving camp. This was an exciting introduction to Tarangire and our adrenaline flowed in anticipation of our first game drive.

The Tanzania National Parks, in co-operation with the African Wildlife Foundation, published booklets on the various National Parks in Tanzania. The booklet on Tarangire contained the following very helpful passage:

The early mornings and late evenings are the best times to observe birds and animals. During the heat of the day much of the wildlife rests under cover. Leave camp or the lodge early and remember to drive slowly. Look under trees and bushes for the pricked ears of some animal raising its head, and also keep a watch out in trees for the dangling tail of a leopard as it lies on a branch. Observe movements of the plains animals which may appear disturbed for no apparent reason - they may have seen, or be suspicious of, nearby lions. Tick birds may indicate the presence of rhinos or buffaloes in bush country, and vultures can indicate a kill worth investigating. Footprints on the road surface will tell you which animals have recently passed by. (2)

Following this advice can help you spot animals that you may otherwise overlook.

Every game drive is a different experience, as well as a matter of luck and being in the right place at the right time. But to try and detail each and every one would be cumbersome at best, and would bore you to tears. I have attempted to cull our more interesting sightings, and summarize the others, thereby giving you a feel of what you too could experience. Hopefully the pictures relate a far more interesting tale.

First Sighting of a Masai Giraffe,
Early Morning at Tarangire

Rarely in 1991 when we ventured out on a game drive in Tarangire did we fail to sight a large variety of animals or birds. Some animals were close to us while others were a substantial distance away. Shortly after we set out that first morning, we came across an ostrich, some common waterbucks and a small giraffe. The ostrich and common waterbucks were a fair distance away. The light was extremely low as the sun had barely risen and certainly was not ideal for taking pictures, but I clicked off several pictures anyway since these were my first “wild animals” that I encountered with a camera in my hands. I required several encounters with the animals before I could resist the impulse to immediately click off several pictures. The giraffe was not that far away and just stood there watching us, his tail swinging back and forth, as if posing for pictures. On the giraffe’s back perched three oxpeckers, birds that eat the insects that are on the animals. This was a Masai giraffe, the type of giraffe found in Tanzania. Before our trip, I did not even know that there was more than one type of giraffe. This giraffe was not very large, so I presumed it was not yet full grown. The short nodules on the top of its head were still covered with small hair, unlike some of the larger giraffes that we saw later in our trip. After a few minutes, the giraffe apparently tired of us, as he turned and trotted off across the open grasslands. As we stopped to take pictures of the giraffe, our driver turned off the motor to the land rover to reduce vibrations emanating from the vehicle, thereby keeping camera motion to a minimum for sharper photos.

The Parks have roads on which vehicles travel for viewing the animals. Driving off the road is strongly discouraged in most Parks and prohibited in others, including Tarangire, as the vehicles damage vegetation. Parts of Tarangire National Park are more developed with roads than others. Shortly after our encounter with the giraffe, we saw a small herd of bull elephants strolling towards the River. The road cut across the River ahead of the elephants, so our vehicles drove onto the concrete bridge, waiting for the animal to emerge. The stream was lined with tall grasses, trees, shrubs and large boulders, and the lighting conditions were ideal, with the sun a little further in the sky and shining over our backs. The setting could not have been prettier.

In a few minutes, eight large bull elephants strolled out of the brush and into the stream, maintaining a comfortable distance from us, aware of our presence although not actually watching us all the time. Most of the elephants grazed on the grasses growing along the stream’s banks and drank from the stream, while others dug at the bark of the trees or the hillside foraging for food. On many of the elephants, one tusk was shorter than the other tusk, an indication as to whether the elephant was left-handed or right-handed. One of the elephants lacked a tusk. Our group remained on the bridge for fifteen or twenty minutes, transfixed by the elephants and not anxious to move on.

As we drove through the Park that morning, we continued to pass a variety of species of animals and birds: impalas, kongonis (also known as hartebeest), oryx, zebra, vervet monkeys, kingfishers and helmeted guinea fowl, to name a few. Irene was very interested in birds, as was our driver, and he maintained a close watch for these feathered creatures on her behalf, which was not too difficult since the Park has more than 550 recorded species of birds. We were constantly stopping to view a new species of fowl. To verify each new sighting, our driver, Irene and one or more of our other passengers compared the bird being viewed to a drawing in one of our driver’s two bird books that he kept with him in the land rover. I do not consider myself much of a birder. However, I soon found myself enjoying the birdlife which was abundant in the Park, and birds such as magpie shrikes, rollers, bee eaters, saddle billed storks and eagles are excellent pictorial subjects.

On our second game drive of our first trip, and not long after leaving the Lodge, we noticed some vultures circling in the air and pointed them out to our driver. A sign of a potential kill, our driver headed towards the area that the birds were circling. Around a curve, we came upon our first pride of lions laying in the shade of a tree, nine female and young male lions in total. Our driver drove to within ten feet of the pride so that we could enjoy a closer look. Much to our surprise, he turned off the engine to the land rover, just as he had done earlier for our better picture taking. In such close proximity to the lions, I preferred that he keep the motor running in case we had to make a quick escape. I must confess that being so close to these predators, although exciting, initially made me nervous. If they so desired, the lions could have made a meal of us. But our driver certainly knew what he was doing since at no time did the lions threaten us.

The lions’ bellies were gorged, having just eaten whatever the vultures were circling earlier, which had attracted us in this direction in the first place. Some of the younger males had the beginnings of a mane, but I had no idea how old they were. The lions mostly laid around and slept or rested, the usual activity of the lions we encountered on safari. If our presence bothered them in any manner, they did not let on. At one point, one or two of the lions rose and sauntered away. Otherwise, they generally ignored us. About 100 to 150 feet away, two male impalas were grazing, their gaze upon us. Certainly they could see the pride of lions, but they seemed unconcerned. Gary told us that prey seemed to know when predators are hunting and when they are not. When predators are not hunting, prey are not as concerned by their presence, although they are always wary. This clearly seemed to be true of the two impalas I saw, although I wondered what would happen to them if they wandered too close to the pride. I thought the temptation would be too great for the lions to resist.

Conspicuously absent from the group lounging under the tree were adult male lions. When asked, Gary told us it was not uncommon for the male lions to eat apart from the rest of the pride. Sure enough, not far away around a curve in the road, under a smaller acacia tree and next to the remains of the kill, lay two male adult lions. Although they did not appear to be very old, they were part of the pride that we had just left, being the two dominant males and more than likely brothers. Under the tree with them sat a rib cage, all that was left of their kill. As we drove around the tree for a closer look, one of the lions growled loudly to inform us that we had approached too close, so the drivers stopped at a distance that did not seem to rile the two. These lions seemed concerned with our presence, unlike the group of females and young males we just left, but I suspect that was more to do with wanting to protect the remains of their meal. The lions had drug a portion of the carcass of their prey under the tree to eat, leaving what was left of the spine and legs of the animal laying out in the open area where several vultures and a tawny eagle picked over the remains. My first encounter with the king of beasts was truly exciting.

Besides our first lion encounter and the white Masai giraffe, I have two other vivid memories of Tarangire – the large elephant population and phenomenal scenery.

I have only the fondest memories of our first trip to Tarangire. The wildlife viewing was excellent, as was the birding. And the scenery was phenomenal. The only negative that I can recall was on one afternoon game drive when we were introduced to the tsetse fly. Nearing one of the soda lakes in the Park, we were suddenly surrounded by flying insects. Immediately everyone began slapping at them violently. Much to my chagrin, I soon discovered that these tsetse flies could and did bite through denim jeans. Our land rover became infested with the flies and all we could do was endure until we drove out of their areas. Gary later explained that, although local tribes wanted the Tanzanian government to eradicate the tsetse flies wherever found, the government declined. The tsetses carry trypanosomiasis, a form of sleeping sickness which affects domestic animals but apparently has no effect on wild animals which have built up a resistance to the disease. The government allowed the tsetse flies to remain in the National Parks to dissuade local residents from grazing their animals there.

Even though we did not encounter many animals on our second trip, I was still quite pleased with the Park. It still had much to offer in its dramatically changing habitat. We even saw two leopards resting in trees, although at too great a distance to photograph. There was really nothing about the Park that I did not like, although this may be a slightly jaded view since this was the first national park I had visited in Africa. In any event, I was glad to return in July 2003 with our two children. Our daughter had watched us depart on several safaris without her. When I asked her what she might like for her high school graduation, she did not hesitate to reply – a trip to Africa. We agreed, and somehow this turned into a trip for her younger brother also. We could not think of a better itinerary than a repeat of our first trip to Africa – the northern circuit of Tanzania.

On our return trip to Tarangire, we lodged at Kikoti Safari Camp, a permanent tented facility located outside the Park on a ridge overlooking Tarangire. The tents were wonderful, with spacious living area, ensuite toilet facilities and covered porch. The Camp is private, with only ten tents accommodating a mere twenty guests, and off of any main road. The Camp had recently been built, and was situated at that particular location because water supposedly was to be found underground. Unfortunately, that was not to be as the well was dry. Now, all water is transported in from Arusha, making it a rather valuable commodity. However, we still enjoyed hot showers, albeit through a bucket system heated over a fire. The main lodge was spacious, the beds were comfortable, the staff was friendly, the food was excellent and the beer was cold. The staff served us breakfast in the bush one morning and dinner in their boma one evening. And the sunset from Kikoti rock was magnificent. Since we were outside the Park, night game drives were also available. My family agreed unanimously that Kikoti was our favorite lodge on this Tanzanian safari.

I still recommend Tarangire National Park as a point of interest in northern Tanzania. On both trips, the birding was spectacular, the elephants were plentiful and the scenery was beautiful. Although we did not encounter many large mammals on our second trip (other than the elephant), we did manage to find some smaller ones to keep us amused.

Footnotes
(1) Replaced by an elephant and a baobab tree on our return visit. In addition, a new visitor center was being built and flush toilets had been added. Progress was visible.
(2) Tarangire National Park, Deborah Snelson, Tanzania National Parks in cooperation with the African Wildlife Foundation (June 1986), p.8.